The Leadheads of Darkness

This weeks painting ends with some of my oldest miniatures rebased and repair-painted. A wild mixture of mostly Essex and Copplestone miniatures I think. Right on time for Halloween.

 

Contrast Colors and a visit to a local Wargames Club

Some weeks ago a friend invited me to come over for a paint session. He introduced me to the (for me) new Contrast Colors from Games Workshop and so I tried them on some Reaper Miniatures.

Here are the (not completely ready) results. The lizards where primed and then simply painted with "Contrast Ork Flesh" and "Contrast Mantis Warriors Green". No washing, no shading. The giants leather jacket (can't find the name of the mini) was painted with "Contrast Snakebite Leather" and the nice leather effect came immediately. Again, no other paint, no further work step. The Troll was painted with another contrast color I can't remember and then washed with "Strong Tone" from Army Painter. Most of the painting was done in a few minutes, details came later.

I must say that these paints are an astonishing product. They may not be suitable for all kinds of miniatures and used too much may result in creating a very specific look, but chosen to paint some parts of minis can bring nice effects and speed things up. I am definitely going to try more of the contrast colors.

And while I was visiting him, I took a photo of his painting place. Like a lot of the younger generation he is all into the Kickstarter and 3D-Printing thing. Which will become (or is?) the biggest threat to the business model of Games Workshop and the like I think. When he started printing I was very skeptical but he has his 2nd printer now and the quality of the miniatures is really high.

  

On that Sunday we also visited the Club he is a member off. They reside in a large bunker and during the Covid crisis the club grew from about 30 members to around 100 members. At the moment they are in progress to double their space and furnish another floor of that building.

One of the three(!) playing areas.

Part of the building and painting area. They also have a special room for spray priming.

Cleaning old miniatures: Let the water do the work

A new(?) technique for people who want to get rid of the paint on old figures: instead of laboriously cleaning the figure with a brush after bathing them in paint thinner for some days, simply remove the remaining paint in the shower with a very strong beam of water.

It's much faster and more accurate. You don't have to remove so much flakes manually afterwards. And because it's faster, it also avoids having to inhale too much of the smell or having to touch the figures while there's still some paint thinner on them. The miniatures are of course put into the shown bowl WITHOUT paint thinner!

The bowl prevents the figures from being thrown around and loose parts such as swords and shields are also caught. To get the best results I pick up every miniature and hold it under the stream to mill off the remaining paint flakes. 

The result. As always there is one who does not want to be cleaned. In every group, believe me. A clear case of pure resistentialism.

And for the environmentalists: I catch most of the paint flakes before they can go down the drain! There's a grate over the sink with small holes that catches most of them. And the used paint thinner is of course always collected and brought to the recycling center. Yes, that's used paint thinner above, not orange juice. I punched holes into the lids to let gas out when the miniatures take their bath. Don't know if I had to, only to be on the safe side.

Cleaning can bring unexpected revelations

These days I made a cleaning test. I took samples from some groups of the newcomers to find out if the paint is easy to strip. And there is a reason for that. Sometimes the old paint definitely does not dissolve and you end up having minis that stay half painted. Horrible to work with...

So I put these guys in paint thinner and forgot about them for more than a week. And I was right to test it beforehand. The male and female barbarians and the dwarf on the top left have kept most of their paint and therefore should not be treated with paint thinner. Now I know which groups I can clean easy and on what figures I have to work on top of the old paint.

Yes, I know, I said that I don't want to strip the paint this time, but working on some of the miniatures I found out that working on old paint that once was applied to thick is not so funny. A lot of the details are lost. I changed my mind on this.

Remember the miniatures I called 'Smurf Elves'? I did so because of the blue skin they have. But now one of them is free of paint and glue I was able to read what's written under the base: "Garrison" and "SS87". According to the StuffofLegends website this is a "Man-goblin with bow and spear" from their Sword & Sorcery range. "Sculpted by the late John Braithwaite and based on the Robert E. Howard Conan the Barbarian novels" (LostMinisWiki)

Fine, now let's find out what a "Man-Goblin" is and where they appear in the Conan stories... ;-)

The "Orc" has the mark "RAF" and "C." and "1985". I did not believe for a second that the Royal Air Force ever made orc miniatures so the next guess was RAFM miniatures. And I was right, I found them on the LostMinisWiki ( LINK ):

"RAFM originally released this Orcs series as "Legions of Darkness" and they were part of RAFM's "The World of Repauria" setting. This range of 25mm figures featured Orcs & Goblins and used product codes in the 3xxx range. All the models were sculpted by Bob Murch apart from the Chaos Goblins by Stephen Koo. In the UK, Portage Miniatures had the rights to manufacture this range. "